"AAAAZZZZUUUUNNNNGGGGUUUUUUU"
Meaning: White person, haole, gaijin, etc.
Significance: Brittni wasn't kidding when she warned me that I'd hear this all the time in Malawi. Children would run down the street after us when they saw us, screaming "azungu". Adults would call to us. It was something I heard all day everyday.
Brittni was a great tour guide and planned lots for us to do. Somethings were on the "touristy" side. Though, it's pretty hard to call anything touristy in Malawi.
Dedza Pottery
Our first stop from Lilongwe was in the town of Dedza, at the pottery factory. We were under the impression that we would be able to make our own potter there, but that wasn't the case. It was fine though, because the grounds were beautiful, and our lunch was amazing. We each bought some pottery to take home. The most useful thing Brittni bought was a candle holder. Just picture the kind of candle holder that is used in really old movies, with a loop for your finger.
Because we were out of the capital, I saw a lot of typical life type things. Women carrying buckets of water on their heads, with babies wrapped around their backs. Lots of trash in piles (to be burned) and little "shops" on the side of the road.
Balaka
Zomba Plateau
Zomba Plateau is famous for it's natural beauty. This is not the brown, dead Africa you may be imagining. We stayed at the "Kuchawe Trout Farm" in a cabin with no electricity, but it did have running water. There weren't that many trout, but it was still really neat. Britt made us a fire that night and we cooked potatoes and pasta. I got to use my head lamp too!
Meaning: White person, haole, gaijin, etc.
Significance: Brittni wasn't kidding when she warned me that I'd hear this all the time in Malawi. Children would run down the street after us when they saw us, screaming "azungu". Adults would call to us. It was something I heard all day everyday.
Brittni was a great tour guide and planned lots for us to do. Somethings were on the "touristy" side. Though, it's pretty hard to call anything touristy in Malawi.
Dedza Pottery
Our first stop from Lilongwe was in the town of Dedza, at the pottery factory. We were under the impression that we would be able to make our own potter there, but that wasn't the case. It was fine though, because the grounds were beautiful, and our lunch was amazing. We each bought some pottery to take home. The most useful thing Brittni bought was a candle holder. Just picture the kind of candle holder that is used in really old movies, with a loop for your finger.
Because we were out of the capital, I saw a lot of typical life type things. Women carrying buckets of water on their heads, with babies wrapped around their backs. Lots of trash in piles (to be burned) and little "shops" on the side of the road.
Dedza Pottery
That night we stayed in a VERY local guesthouse. It was recommended by Lonely Planet, so I had high-is expectations. At that point I didn't know how few azungu travelers there are in the area, so there weren't any hostels outside the main cities. The room was plain, but at least it had mosquito nets. We were pretty sure there were rats running around all night above us ("just don't think about it!" we told ourselves). At least the rats never came down into our room (we hope!). In the morning we were brought buckets of boiling water to mix with the cold shower water, to have a bucket bath.
Balaka
We headed further south to a town called Balaka. Peace Corps was going to hold a HIV/AIDS training there for a few days.
We went to a cafe/studio/shop called Chifundo Artisans Network. It is owned by an American woman and her Italian husband. The food was amazing, and the crafts were beautiful. Everything was made by local Malawians from the area. I bought several gifts, but easily could have bought so much more! We met another girl named Alicia, from Boston who was doing HIV risk perception research in Balaka for a few months. We invited her to come with us to Zomba Plateau.
Zomba Plateau
Zomba Plateau is famous for it's natural beauty. This is not the brown, dead Africa you may be imagining. We stayed at the "Kuchawe Trout Farm" in a cabin with no electricity, but it did have running water. There weren't that many trout, but it was still really neat. Britt made us a fire that night and we cooked potatoes and pasta. I got to use my head lamp too!
Horseback riding on the plateau was awesome! A Brittish/African raised azungu woman owns the stables with her husband. The horses are from several African countries, I think Malawi, Zambia, South Africa. My horse was HUGE, and even worse at stopping/listening than Tristan! We rode for several hours, walked, trotted, and even cantered. The reservoir was so pretty, everything was really green. We could hear people around cutting down trees and branches, which they would then carry down the mountain. Deforestation was a huge problem in the area. Though it's illegal, there really isn't anyone to do anything about it.
We got a ride down the plateau in the back of a truck, which gave us the opportunity to take some great photos and videos. Sadly, the color and quality really don't do it justice.
Liwonde
On our way back up to Balaka we stopped for the day in Liwonde to check out the hippos that are in the Shire River. While enjoying our beers along the river we noticed a group of boys paddling around the river on a boat. Brittni, being the outgoing person that she is, called the boys in and asked them to take us for a ride. At first I said there was no way I was gonna get in that death trap, but I gave into peer pressure (and look, I'm still alive!). We "paid" the boys 2 fantas to take us out for a while. Luckily we didn't get too close to the hippos, but we did make it to the other side of the river!
Monkey Bay
After just 2 days at Brittni's site we went back up north to Lake Malawi, to Monkey Bay, which is at the southern most point of the lake.
First we took a 40 minute bicycle taxi on the dirt road from Tomali Village to the main road. We rode through sugar cane and other fields. I truly understood the meaning of living in the "bush." We then took 8 modes of transport (mostly "hitching"- hitchhiking) and 8 hours to get to the lake. However, we only had to spend about 300 kwacha ($2!). The closer we got to the lake the much more 'in your face' the Malawians became. They know lots of tourists go to that area.
We camped next to the lake and spent two days just hanging out. On Saturday we roasted a pig all day and then had it for dinner.
After just 2 days at Brittni's site we went back up north to Lake Malawi, to Monkey Bay, which is at the southern most point of the lake.
First we took a 40 minute bicycle taxi on the dirt road from Tomali Village to the main road. We rode through sugar cane and other fields. I truly understood the meaning of living in the "bush." We then took 8 modes of transport (mostly "hitching"- hitchhiking) and 8 hours to get to the lake. However, we only had to spend about 300 kwacha ($2!). The closer we got to the lake the much more 'in your face' the Malawians became. They know lots of tourists go to that area.
We camped next to the lake and spent two days just hanging out. On Saturday we roasted a pig all day and then had it for dinner.
Mt. Mulanje
We hitched to the town of Chitakale and spent the night at a local place. We decided to do a short hike to a waterfall. It didn't end up being that short, but it was great. Mt. Mulanje is the tallest mountain in Malawi. Many people do several day treks up the mountains with a porter and a guide.
We started in town and walked through tea-fields before we hitched and ended up at the start of the actual hike. The mountain was covered in clouds at the beginning, but it ended up burning off. Un-official "guides" kept trying to take us up the mountain (of course they wanted money). They were very annoying and were constantly talking and asking the same questions. I decided that if I ever did pay a guide, rule #1 would be NO TALKING!
We saw tons of girls and women (a few men) taking huge bundles of wood down the mountain. We finally go to the falls, which were really pretty, but the water was freezing! Brittni jumped off a rock and froze her butt off. Being the Hawaiian that I am, I refused to get in. I did, however lay with my hair in the water and "washed" it. I don't think I'd showered in several days at that point.
At the bottom of the mountain there were men selling items carved from cedar. On my way up I saw a wine rack that I really liked, so I had the guy carve and finish it for me while we were hiking. I paid $20! It actually made it back to Hawaii in 1 piece! Well, several pieces because I put it together like a puzzle- but it didn't break!
We were nice and clean, and then we got on one of the worst hitches back to the town. We ended up covered in dirt and dust. It was disgusting.
We started in town and walked through tea-fields before we hitched and ended up at the start of the actual hike. The mountain was covered in clouds at the beginning, but it ended up burning off. Un-official "guides" kept trying to take us up the mountain (of course they wanted money). They were very annoying and were constantly talking and asking the same questions. I decided that if I ever did pay a guide, rule #1 would be NO TALKING!
We saw tons of girls and women (a few men) taking huge bundles of wood down the mountain. We finally go to the falls, which were really pretty, but the water was freezing! Brittni jumped off a rock and froze her butt off. Being the Hawaiian that I am, I refused to get in. I did, however lay with my hair in the water and "washed" it. I don't think I'd showered in several days at that point.
At the bottom of the mountain there were men selling items carved from cedar. On my way up I saw a wine rack that I really liked, so I had the guy carve and finish it for me while we were hiking. I paid $20! It actually made it back to Hawaii in 1 piece! Well, several pieces because I put it together like a puzzle- but it didn't break!
We were nice and clean, and then we got on one of the worst hitches back to the town. We ended up covered in dirt and dust. It was disgusting.
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